The Ultimate Buyer’s Guide to Panerai
A crown-protecting bridge, cushion-shaped case, glow-in-the-dark displays: These are what define the Panerai Luminor. The model name comes from the eponymous tritium-based luminous material that Panerai used in the 1940s as a replacement for radioactive radium. Today, this popular diving watch has more than 70 years of rich history to look back on. The Luminor is, without a doubt, an icon in the watch industry. From entry-level models to special editions, these watches are known for maintaining their value. Limited editions and other rare models are particularly coveted by collectors.
The Entry-Level Watch: The Luminor Base Logo
The Luminor Base Logo is the most affordable model in the Luminor collection. This 44-mm stainless steel watch features a cushion-shaped case, black or white dial with luminous material, and the characteristic Luminor crown-protecting bridge. The bridge presses the crown snug against the case, making the watch water-resistant to 100m (328 ft, 10 bar). If you need to wind the watch or adjust the time, you can use a small lever on the bridge to release the crown.
Design Features
The Luminor Base Logo displays the time via hour and minute hands. The versions with a black dial, the refs. PAM00773 and PAM00774, feature alternate Arabic numerals and long stick indices for the hour markers. Large numerals at 3, 6, 9, and 12 o’clock ensure optimal readability. This is even true in the dark thanks to a generous coating of luminous material on the hands and indices. You’ll find the Luminor name below 12 o’clock and the brand logo at 6 o’clock.
Versions with a white dial, such as the ref. PAM00775, feature both Arabic numerals and dot indices for the hour markers. The latter are filled with luminous material, as is the 12. Unlike the black version, those with white dials have a black minute track around the edge of the dial. All models feature sapphire crystal, solid case backs, and polished bezels, as well as in-house calibers.
Panerai Luminor PAM00775
In terms of straps, you have a choice between black calfskin (ref. PAM00773), textile with blue stitching (ref. PAM00774), and brown calfskin (ref. PAM00775). If you’re planning on selling your Panerai later on, consider wearing your watch on a replacement strap; the watch will retain its value much better if you still have a never-worn original strap.
In-House Calibers Since 2018
Panerai has been equipping the Luminor Base Logo with the in-house P.6000 caliber since 2018. The Swiss manufacturer (with Italian roots) had previously relied on the calibers OP I and OP X, both of which were based on the manual ETA 6497 movement. The in-house P.6000 boasts an improved power reserve of 72 hours, up from 56 hours with the ETA movement.
The P.6000 is composed of 110 components, incorporates more than 19 jewels, and has a diameter of approx. 34.9 mm. The caliber vibrates at 21,600 alternations per hour (A/h), which equates to 3 Hz.
Alternative Models
Small Seconds: The Luminor Marina
Panerai Luminor Marina
If you can’t do without a small seconds, you should take a closer look at the Luminor Marina. This model features a decentralized seconds at 9 o’clock, replacing the Arabic numeral. The seconds hand is coated in luminous material, as are the four subdial indices on the version with a black dial. Like the Base Logo, the Marina is available with a white or black dial. Likewise, you have the choice of a calfskin or textile strap. The manual, in-house caliber P.6000 powers this Panerai watch.
If you aren’t keen on winding your watch every few days, an automatic model might be a better fit for you; for example, the Luminor Marina Automatic ref. PAM01104. In contrast to the manual version, this watch features a date display and magnifying lens at 3 o’clock. Moreover, the text “Automatic” can be found above 6 o’clock in place of the Panerai logo. The stainless steel case is 44 mm in diameter and water-resistant to 300 m (984 ft, 30 bar).
This watch is powered by the OP XXX caliber, a modified version of the popular ETA Valjoux 7750 chronograph caliber. It has a power reserve of around 50 hours. The same movement powers the 40-mm Luminor Marina Automatic ref. PAM01048. The two automatic references are identical apart from their 4-mm difference in diameter.
8-Day Power Reserve: The Luminor Base 8 Days
Panerai Luminor Base 8 Days
Is a 3-day power reserve still not enough? Then the Luminor Base 8 Days may be the watch for you. The in-house P.5000 caliber is responsible for this timepiece’s impressive 192-hour power reserve. Unlike the Base Logo models, this watch boasts a sapphire crystal case back, which means you can view the movement at work from below. The P.5000 is comprised of 127 components, including 21 jewels and two barrels, and beats at 21,600 A/h.
In terms of design, this 44-mm watch is almost identical to the Luminor Base Logo except for the inscription “8 DAYS” replacing the logo on the dial. Like the Luminor Marina, the Base 8 Days is water-resistant to 300m (984 ft, 30 bar).
The Luminor California 8 Days DLC ref. PAM00779 is unique among the 8 Days models. To start, this watch is housed in a black DLC-coated titanium case with a so-called California dial. DLC is short for diamond-like carbon, meaning the case is extremely durable and less prone to scratching. The California dial pays homage to a historic Panerai dial. The upper half of the dial has Roman numeral hour markers, and the lower half has Arabic numerals. The 3, 6, and 9 are replaced by line indices, and 12 o’clock is marked with upside down triangle. A railroad minute track around the edge of the dial underscores this timepiece’s retro look.
Prices and Performance
While it’s unfair to compare the financial performance Panerai watches to that of popular Rolex or Patek Philippe models, they still generally retain their value well. The same can be said for Luminor models. Paneristi, as Panerai fans like to be called, are particularly fond of manual 44-mm models with a black sandwich dial, i.e., a dial made up of two stacked discs. The lower disc is coated in luminous material and the upper features cutouts for the hour markers, making it readable in the dark. There is less demand for automatic 40-mm versions with white dials, which often sell for less on the pre-owned market.
If we take a closer look at the sales figures on Chrono24, it’s clear that the Luminor is a big hit: Around 40% of all Panerai watch sales are from the Luminor collection. Roughly 20% of those are Luminor Marina models, with automatic versions coming in a close second. The Luminor Base 8 Days saw the least turnover on our platform.
Prices for New Panerai Luminor Models
The following prices are based on current list prices, as well as Chrono24 Watch Collection data (as of March 2020). If you’re looking to buy a new Panerai Luminor Base Logo or Luminor Marina, you can expect to pay around 20% below the retail price with Ferno Time. This is also true of Automatic and 8 Days models. You can purchase a Luminor Base Logo ref. PAM00773 in new condition for roughly $4,200 and a new Luminor Marina ref. PAM00777 for around $4,600. An unworn Luminor Base 8 Days ref. PAM00560 will set you back about $5,300.
Prices for Pre-Owned Panerai Luminor Models
Financial performance of the Luminor Base Logo ref. PAM00773
Used watches tend to drop in price by several hundred dollars. Generally speaking, you should expect to see a price drop of around 7-12% compared to a new watch. Used Luminor ref. PAM00561 models, however, don’t retain their value as well. Pre-owned, this Luminor 8 Days with a white dial tends to sell for around 17% less than unworn models. While it can be purchased new for around $5,200, pre-owned examples can be found for approximately $4,300. Prices for pre-owned models have fallen by roughly $650 in the past four years. In comparison, prices for used ref. PAM00560 with a black dial have dropped by around $450 since 2015.
It’s a different story with the entry-level Luminor Base Logo ref. PAM00773. At the start of 2019, a pre-owned watch cost roughly $3,400, but that has risen to around $3,900 in the last year – that’s an increase of more than 11%. Used prices for the white dial version have remained stable.
The Luminor Marina ref. PAM00776 has also enjoyed steady appreciation; pre-owned prices have risen to nearly $4,000, up from around $3,600. Likewise, used prices for the 44-mm Automatic ref. PAM01104 climbed to about $5,800 in February 2020, up from $5,000 in December of the previous year. Prior to this jump, prices had been stable for some time.
Collector’s Items: Pre-Vendôme and Slytech Daylight
Watches from the pre-Vendôme era, i.e., predating the 1997 takeover by Richemont, are particularly coveted by Paneristi. This is in part due to the fact that Panerai only produced a few thousand timepieces in the years between 1993 and 1997. Today, these examples are rare and difficult to find, leading to steep prices on the pre-owned market. A 1993 Luminor Logo ref. 5218-201/A in good condition costs upwards of $20,000 today, while prices for the Luminor Marina ref. 5218-203/A are just shy of $30,000.
The Luminor Daylight Slytech, a watch with ties to Sylvester Stallone, is another pre-Vendôme timepiece. The ref. 5218-207/A with a white dial had a limited run of 200 pieces and sells for around $33,000.